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Saturday, April 19, 2014

The Wiksten Tova Top Re-Interpreted Yet Again

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It turns out that the Tova top, by Jenny Gordon of Iowa City, has been all the rage among the sewing bloggers for some time.  As a newcomer to the sewing blogs, I thought I oughta try my hand at it too.

I ordered the pattern about a month ago now but have been preoccupied with other projects, a visit from my mother, work, and, of course, my son, and wasn't sure what to do about fabric selection.  I've been so into Japanese floral prints of late, and the idea of doing the inset and sleeves, or placket and collar and bias tape, in complementary colors was somewhat appealing.  But then I came across this rendition using striped shirting fabric by Ashley at Mohr Studio and decided to copy her idea.  I found some very pretty sky blue/white striped light, light cotton on sale at Fabric Outlet (thanks for your patience while I shopped, Mom).

Unfortunately, there was only a yard and a third left of the fabric, but I figured I could stick with the top, instead of the dress version, and make short sleeves, even though the three-quarter length on the original are super cute.

Now, here's where I share the secret (or not, if you know me and pay any attention) that I'm one size on top (bust and shoulders) and a size larger on the bottom, (waist to hips).  I haven't had much in the way of formal clothing construction training, and am aware that there are more elegant ways to modify patterns, but I'm about to show my quick and dirty way of modifying my patterns so that my clothes fit well. 

I figure out--eyed it on this pattern but have been known to measure it out--where the bust is, where my waist will be and then draw a diagonal line between the two.  I recommend using your sloper to connect the two points, but I free-handed this one.  And, voila, a customized pattern.  I also usually add two inches to the length of a blouse and four inches to the length of a dress to acommodate my 5'9" frame, but ended up taking the extra length off again on this Tova blouse.  Better to shorten something that's too long than vice versa, in my opinion.

The pattern was relatively easy to follow.  Like Ashley at Mohr Studio, I cut the inset on the bias, for a little added interest.  I wish I had put some fusible interfacing on the back of the inset because it did stretch a bit and made it a little more challenging to match it to the collar.  In fact, the collar and placket could have used some fusible too.  I like a little more structure than my light cotton provided. 
And, of course, there were the shortened sleeves.  I started with a French sleeve as I had made one recently on a blouse I found in Simple Modern Sewing by Shufu To Seikatsu Sha, but then didn't quite like how much the sleeves were sticking out to the sides, so narrowed them under the arm--this time actually using my sloper.  Then added some bias tape.  Oh, yea, and I sewed the placket down.  I think that works better for a small-busted lady. Here 'tis.

Um, clearly this is weekend styling, but I'm sure I could dress it up for work too.  And I suppose if I made a longer one, it wouldn't need the long tank underneath when worn with leggings. . . but I kind of like the faux bandage mini look. . . . 

1 comment:

  1. fabric outlet is my fave!! cute shirt!